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看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:00:22

Madonna, Blade Runner, mohawks, Studio 54, shoulder pads, deficit spending, Leigh Bowery and cocaine are just some of the visions, voices and vices that define the 80s, an era that could more easily be summed up in one word: Excess. Lived out by many, particularly those in the proverbial underground, as if they were the last years on earth, the decade spawned nothing short of an artistic explosion in the fields of fashion, music and art. With 20 essays and 700 images pieced together scrapbook-style, "Excess: Fashion and the Underground in the 80s" (Charta), available in mid-March, documents the period and serves as the catalog for a just-wrapped exhibition of the same name in Florence, Italy. In the following slideshow, co-curator—and new style editor at The New York Times Magazine—Stefano Tonchi shares his thoughts about those ambitious ten years.

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:00:58

PERFORMANCE ARTIST LEIGH BOWERY, LONDON 1983, PHOTO SHEILA ROCK

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:01:36

UNTITLED, BARBARA KRUGER, 1987

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:02:15

PHOTOS HELMUT NEWTON, PARIS VOGUE, 1981

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:02:51

JERRY HALL BACKSTAGE AT A FASHION SHOW, EARLY 80'S, PHOTO ROXANNE LOWIT

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:03:28

RICHARD GERE IN AMERICAN GIGOLO, 1980

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:04:53

DRESS COMME DES GARCONS, FALL 1984, PHOTO PETER LINDBERGH

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:05:26

GRACE JONES PAINTED BY KEITH HARING, PHOTO ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE, 1985

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:06:08

CLOCK WIG JOHN GALLIANO, 1988, PHOTO MARTIN BRADING

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:06:41

PALLADIUM, 1985

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:07:16

BLADERUNNER, 1982

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:07:51

ARTFORUM, SPRING 1982, PHOTO ELICHIRO SAKATA (DRESS ISSEY MIYAKE)

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:08:23

DRESS YOHJI YAMAMOTO, FALL 1988, PHOTO NICK KNIGHT, DESIGN BY PETER SAVILLE ASSOCIATES

看着你燃烧 · 发表于 2004-9-12 18:09:08

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AD CAMPAIGN, SPRING 1988

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